Lands End to John O’Groats
A solo unsupported ride, by Rob Bloor
Photo: © Rob Bloor
Prep
Decided to tackle the LeJoG back in Dec 25
Spoke and met with Alastair Webb hoping we could do it together but he was not overly enthusiastic thinking I would be too fast for him even in my overweight unfit state!
After Australia at Christmas it was obvious even to me, that I needed to loose weight
I started to be more controlled about my eating habits
Eating proper meals, Fruit, reduce chocolate biscuits
Stop drinking!
Eventually lost 6kg
I also started doing more longer cycles
Which helped to build confidence
Booked Penzance train a bit later than I wanted but only train available with bike space and return on free Ember Buses meant I was committed!
Decided on using my fastest lightest bike changed to 34-11 cassette
With 3 weeks in NZ 1 week before starting was not ideal with regards to jet lag recovery
Managed to do some longish cycles with a great MTB 3 day tour with long days in the saddle
Some running and the NZ Orienteering champs too
On return from NZ 7 days to go I started getting ready with the emphasis on minimal clothes and other kit to reduce weight and space
No under cross bar bag but small top bag for food and phone
After many purchases from Amazon I was almost ready!
I had also decided to ride for charity and the Wee Hours Charity who I have volunteered with was the obvious choice. Donna who set up and runs the charity is also a member of my Business Networking Group.
Prologue 17km
A very early start to catch the 7am train to Penzance, an 11hrs journey with a bag of food all went smoothly By the end everyone was chatting and wishing me good luck on the trip
Off the train 5:50pm it was so fresh after the stuffy train!
Decided to cycle out to the signpost at LE beautiful weather sunny but headwind out to LE.
LE was actually quite wild with big waves and a rugged coastline.
Went past the First and Last Pub a quick photo before a rush to get to Penzance YHA for dinner before 8pm.
Made it with time to spare!
Dinner not very interesting
Some of my fellow hostelers were a bit more interesting:
Had a chat with a Dutch guy over to get his torso tattooed!
A Chinese rocket science student so he said!
In the morning a SUP boarder was in the kitchen her race was cancelled due to the wind
Sounded a bit tedious 12hr race round a 3km circuit!
Day 1 to Okhampton
149.9km 1920m Minions and Screeching Owls
The sound of hooting owls gently woke me….I set off early and fresh!, taking one day at a time and trying not to think of the enormity of the challenge ahead
The skies were rather foreboding with the silhouette of St Micheal’s Mount sobering my thoughts and helping me to concentrate on the task in hand. Soon the sun was out and all was right with the world and thoughts turned to coffee and cafes!
Signs appear for the Screech Owl Sanctuary, they must have a cafe!?
Yes sir we have a cafe but you need to buy a £18 entry ticket too!!
Keep going past relics of Cornish 19th Century tin and copper Mining, the impressive Phoenix United Mine Engine House and the more prehistoric Hurler Stone Circles and Long Tom stone punctuated the landscape.
Eventually arriving at the village of Minions perched on top of a hill with amazing panoramic views
A one cafe village which ticked all the boxes
The terrain is either up or down steep hills down deep incised hedge lined lanes usually covered in mud and loose stones, so hardly any time to look at the view!
By late afternoon with fatigue setting nearing the end of the ride, I ended up on the Granite Way an old railway now a tarmac cycle and walking trail. The trail popped out at the YHA in Okehampton The purpose built hostel was super quiet but no heating and rather basic showers!
Only bonus was a room to myself!
After some soup I walked down the hill into the centre of town to buy food from Waitrose but got distracted by a rather interesting looking pub and the idea of a drink and a meal was far more attractive!
I had made it to Devon according to the council’s name on the side of a passing refuse lorry!
Day 2 over the Seven to Monmouth
206km 1600m
The first of three 200km days, so an early start, glad to leave the rather soulless youth hostel and get underway.
Made excellent progress with blue skies and a great tailwind speeding me through the Devon countryside with geology changing the hills became less steep and more rounded….but still plenty of mud covered lanes to slow you down.
Orchards started appearing which meant we were now in cider country!
It took a lot of willpower to cycle passed the Sheppy’s Cider Farm Shop!
I was directed onto cycle path through Taunton and came across a busy looking cafe,always a good sign
The staff were super friendly, ended up sharing a table with a couple who offered to make a donation to the Wee Hours Charity. The food and coffee were great. Took some effort to leave and get on with the second half of the ride
Things soon made a turn for the worse, when you have to put on your rain jacket for a few spots of rain!! Which got wet and wet, for next 60km..grim factor 5! The landscape became more industrial as I pass around Bristol over the Avon river next to the M5. The route took me down some very dubious cycle paths round industrial buildings on muddy oily roads
Eventually the Seven Bridge Crossing appeared in the murky distance and beyond that Wales. The rain stopped but the road went upwards a sting in the tail through delightful beech forest all in leaf, before a rewarding decent into Monmouth where the sun made a welcoming appearance.
It was a Premier Inn tonight a proper bed, towels and en-suite.
Day 3 Tattenhall
173km 1620m
After yesterday’s rain Wales was verdant. Monmouth a lovely market town nestled in the rural landscape filled me with joy!
Soon over the border into England and over the River Wye I headed up to the literary town of Ludlow
Headed to the centre of town with the same philosophy as yesterday, the best cafe will find me! And it didn’t disappoint great deli/cafe on the edge of the bustling market square, just about warm enough to sit outside and watch the world go by!
All good things come to an end and off I had to get up and go again!
The wind turned to a headwind, the road on my route was closed and I ended up negotiating the heavy unforgiving traffic on the A49 in torrential rain whilst listening to the architect Takero Shimzaki discuss the Japanese philosophy of Wabi Sabi!
As I entered the Cheshire plain the sun came out highlighting the delightful landscape. Perfect for a multi millionaire footballer to have their rural retreat! Where cars with trailers all carry a classic red Ferrari en route to someone’s private car collection!
The Bear at Tattenhall didn’t disappoint, recently refurbished everything was perfect!…except for the omission of a toilet roll holder!
Day 4 A6 to the Lakes
197.6km 2100m
Long day number 2, I’d foolishly looked at the weather to see the wind had turned to a headwind most depressing!
I was now in familiar countryside recognising the hills and towns having spent 7 years at nearby University of Liverpool and working in South Manchester and Alderley Edge. So over the light green Runcorn Bridge or Silver Jubilee Bridge a through arch bridge similar to Sydney Harbour's.
Through the industrial no man’s land of Widnes Runcorn St Helens before heading up the A6 towards Preston. Hit a pothole…puncture. Rapid replacement of the inner tube not before one guy walking along the pavement stopped and asked if I had everything, then a guy in a car stopped holding up the traffic to ask the same again. The kindness of northern folk!
On my way again entering Preston on an old tram cycle way.
Again the cafe found me….great coffee salmon/cream cheese bagel perfect!!
Lingered too long again! I still had another 100km to go!
Was going well then suddenly you’ve had too much sugar not enough sugar cold sweats just keep going and you’ll ride it out!
I shed a tear at the sight of the Langdale Pikes bringing back so many family memories before making it to Ambleside so after 180km the hardest climb rears up out of Ambleside past the Golden Rule Pub bringing back many happy memories!
On wards and upwards it’s not called The Struggle for nothing! Slowly the Kirkstone Pass Inn inches its way closer and you make the final push to the top. It’s worth it for the views and the low sun on the Cumberland Fells
Now the descent to Ullswater fills me with dread, the last time I was here I didn’t make it to the bottom ending up in Kendal A&E with my bike left at the Inn as the police didn’t think I would make it….
So carefully I descended still to this day I cannot remember what happened!
After the fierce headwind the wind disappeared and Ullswater was perfectly still.
Now just the matter of the 2km ascent to the Royal Dockray Hotel, making it just before the dinner service closed.
A great evening with my old mate Martin/Bilbo/The Brigadier always good to catch up with!
Day 5 Home briefly
188km 1257m
Breakfast or no breakfast…. Arranged with Peter Ellen to meet at 9am in nearby Greystoke Breakfast was supposed to be available from 8am but no one around
A quick call to my domestique for the day and bananas and flapjack were ordered…thankyou Peter!
After a few business calls….and breakfast consumed we headed north past the gatehouse to Greystoke Castle home to the 14th Duke of Norfolk. And a brief appearance of the Nicky Richard horse racing stable trotted by….
The countryside was becoming more familiar with stone walls and delightful lanes. Great to have some company too after 4 days of solo cycling changing the dynamics of the ride, plenty of laddish banter to amuse ourselves as we headed through Carlise and north into Scotland
Came through Lockerbie and bumped into a cycle tourer and a brief chat at the lights, she turned off to pay her respects…. And we had a few moments of quiet as we remembered the tragic events of December 21st 1988.
Our mood was lightened when we spotted the young Des Crowe on his bike heading south at Ecclefechan on his way to drink some Belgium beer in Belgium!
The goal was Moffat for lunch and we ended up at a slightly more up market cafe/bistro than Rumblin’ Tums and was rewarded with sourdough under my scrambled eggs! And excellent coffee all timed to coincide with passing showers outside! We were now on home roads over the Devils Beeftubs and the source of the Tweed, the long ascent was rewarded with an even longer descent. We looked at each other as we came into Tweeddale and agreed another coffee was required to warm us up The Wee Crook Inn didn’t disappoint with a wood burning stove to warm us!
Interesting chat with a rather lovely family about the benefits of Lycra shorts for cycling!
We were getting closer to home now, so head down through Broughton and Penicuik and we were suddenly home!
I had left out a few things to replenish and change my kit. Washing on! And a shower at home before I was picked up by the Ellen Taxi for dinner
Thankyou Lorna for an amazing spread!
I never really thought I’d get this far but now the end was most definitely in sight!
Not before burning the midnight oil producing some drawings I promised a client few days earlier….
Day 6 over another bridge to Dalwhinnie
169.7km 1653m
Rounded up a posse of Neil, Peter and Ian for the ride out of Edinburgh obviously we met at Red Box St Cuthberts Cafe! A more relaxed 8:30 start before heading over the old Forth Road Bridge
It was super chilly so an early first coffee was in order at Orthodox Roasters in Kinross where the coffee roaster is now in the middle of the cafe!
Onto old racing roads around Glenfarg before plunging down to Bridge of Earn and Perth
A few navigational errors as we negotiated the new cycle path route before arriving into Birnam and Dunkeld and through the grounds of the Dunkeld House Hotel and the historic King’s Seat Hillfort
Passed fly fishermen up to their waists in the River Tay trying to catch an elusive wild salmon.
Onto quiet back roads and over the Logierait refurbished rail now road/cycling bridge where I advised the community council the appropriate colour to paint many years ago!
Such glorious countryside, memories of the Etape Caledonia Sportive final few miles helping Lorna achieve her fastest time. After 100km or so we made it to Jessie’s Cafe for lunch in Pitlochry
Peter and Ian now headed off on the train home and I stocked up with my evening meal and bottle of wine all stowed in my back pockets before heading up the A9 cycle path to the Dalwhinnie Bunkhouse to a beautiful evening surrounded by the still snow clad Highland hills
Thanks to Peter/Ian/Neil for the domestique duties to Pitlochry
Fun quiz question:
What connects Kelty, a wardrobe and a superman outfit!?
Day 7 to the Crask Inn
200.77km 1532m
Sitting sipping my bottle of wine working out the route for tomorrow I realise I’ve missed calculated the distance it’s 200km not 170km, I’ll be leaving at 7am then!
Everyone at the bunkhouse was up at 6am for an early start!
Left at 7:10 into the cold of the early morning soon stopped to put on my waterproof jacket never to take it off for the rest of the day!
There were spectacular views of the snow covered Cairngorms.
By the time I made Aviemore the cafes were still shut! So onwards to Inverness, after many cycle paths and diversions round the dualling of the A9 past the Battle of Culloden visitor centre one of my favourite buildings I finally descended into Inverness and came across a Greggs at a petrol station, life doesn’t get any better!
Nowhere to sit down but it was warmer than outside!
I was not feeling the love today everything was an effort onwards we go!
Across the Kessock Bridge and through rather dull countryside matching the overcast grey skies to Dingwall. The long climb over Struie warmed me up and I finally took off my jacket but was soon back on for the descent!
Finally the sun came out, the final climb up by the Shin Falls lifted my spirits as the last 20km through Lairg to the Crask Inn approached, plenty of time to spare so chilled out taking in the scenery
The Crask Inn was built in 1815 as a drovers inn by the Sutherland Estate. This remote Inn has provided a welcome refuge for generations of weary travellers in the Far North.
Thomas Telford upgraded the road in 1819, but it is still a single-track and with the electricity coming from the Inn’s generator. There are no street lights to pollute the clear night skies or disturb the sheep, which are looked after by the former owners, Mike and Kai Geldard, who gifted the Inn to the Scottish Episcopal Church several years ago.
The Crask inn appeared, and soon I was chatting to fellow cyclists who were at the bar, a Harris Gin & Tonic later and all was good!
The evening moved on to Harris Hearach whisky …well I was nearly at the end of the trip!
Day 8 Lands End at last
165.11km 1256m
The last day can’t quite believe it and the weather has just got better and better with blue blue skies and no wind for the picturesque ride past amazing lochs and views of the surrounding hills.
Followed the River Naver gently descending to the coast at Tillyhill before following the undulating road along the north coast, stopping to take more clothes as the day warmed up!
Eventually Thurso appeared but no decent cafe and I ended up in Tesco’s cafe but they did have Jammy Dodgers!
On the backroad towards John O’Groats, Where do all the children play by Cat Stevens was the song playing on my AirPods when I took the final turn down to John O’Groats with the lyric “we’ve come a long way we’re changin day to day”
Not a dry eye in the house!
Photos done!
Head back to Thurso with a massive tailwind.
Postscript
Now for the bit of the trip I was looking forward to, the journey back down to Edinburgh on the Ember electric bus, followed by the train to London to cheer Max on at the London Marathon
I was riding for the Wee Hours Charity helping Edinburgh’s homeless in their hour of need
Donations can be made here